2022: Pezenas and Paris: Belleville beckons

For this, our 8th sojourn to Paris, and given the COVID19 situation, we decided to stay away from bigger tourist attractions, like the Orsay or the Louvre, and focus on new-to-us sights. I did a lot of online research and also perused our Blue Guide Paris. Today we would walk about Belleville, following the Blue Guide, have lunch at one of the favorite restaurants of a 3 Michelin star chef, and whatever else caught our fancy. It was just good to be back in Paris after a 3 year absence!

We took the Metro to Pyrenees where we began our tour. I admit it was an inauspicious start. Between the abundant graffiti--so different from Street Art--and dog poop and pee, Belleville was making a depressing first impression. (Spoiler alert: It gets better!)

From Boulevard de Belleville, the Eiffel Tower could be seen in the way distance on this beautiful morning.

Our first "stop" was the steps of #72 where Edith Piaff (1915-1963) was supposedly born. Very unprepossessing. She may have sung at #115 but I didn't get a picture.

These gorgeous pastries needed to be consumed. So we bought a couple to do just that!

Our walk led us to Place Frehel Square where the buildings were decorated with beautiful murals.

Le Passe by Jean Le Gac

A mural by Ben (1993)
Google translate: beware of the words

There were some very pretty doors on the way.

We walked past the unassuming Jewish church, Lacroix Synagoge, up to the Belleville park.

The area of park was potentially pretty but it was hard to tell over the dog poop. There were many signs in the area stating "If you love Belleville, you'll take care of it by picking up your dog's poop." So many people don't love Belleville...

We headed back down the street (Rue Julien-Lacroix), past Les Ateliers du Tayrac, and detoured by a mural about the Paris Commune that governed Paris for two months (18 March-28 May) in 1871. These "Revolutionaries" had fought for France in the Franco-Prussian war which led to the establishment of the Third Republic, which they refused to accept. The Commune established progressive policies to separate church and state, abolish child labor, give workers rights, and self-policing. The French Army "suppressed" (aka killed) between 10,000-20,000 Communards, many others were imprisoned or fled abroad. The Commune's ideas influenced Marx and Engels. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paris_Commune

We then entered Parc de Belleville proper. Even the playground was marred by graffiti.

But the park itself was lovely with very pretty views.

Hello pretty kitty!

The walk led us to the terrace with a Wallace Fountain, a belvedere with fabulous panoramic views over Paris, an enclosed garden Jardin Luquet filled with vines--apparently the whole are was wine producing, and cute cafe's.

Richard Wallace was rich guy who was caught up in the Siege of Paris and the birth of the Third Republic. He stayed in the city and paid for an ambulance and a hospital but decided to move to London, with his art collection, after the violent suppression of the Paris Commune. In 1872, he offered 50 fountains to provide clean, free water as a farewell gift. There are now 82 in Paris. We've never noticed them before but saw several this trip. This one was my favorite, 'cuz blue!

Wallace Fountain

A vineyard behind iron fences

Out of the park, next was Villa Castel, 19C, featured in the film Jules et Jim (1962). Looks like an apartment complex but pretty dilapadated.

I loved this tiny Passage Plantin and its pretty houses, streetlamps, and gardens.

We took the route toward Notre-Dame-de-la-Croix, passing unremarkable buildings and the Petite Ceinture https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/petite-ceinture

This magnificent church is from 1860-1869 and is the 3rd longest in Paris (after Notre Dame and St.-Sulpice) with a 78m belfry. A church has stood here since the 15C. It was, sadly, closed on a Monday.

The square across from the church, Place Maurice-Chevalier, had some bistros, a Wallace Fountain, and a petanque store. This is the heart of Menilmontant.

Wallace Fountain

Super saturated blue door :^

The square also had this really cool mural "C'est nous les gars de Menilmontant" (google translate: it's us guys from Menilmontant).

I made husband detour down a side street so we could actually enter the Petite Ceinture. It was peaceful and pretty.

I took lots of pictures of the street art.

And doors, of course.

This was a very cool collection of pictures of the people, and some pet, living in the neighborhood.

This small stone building, at the top of Rue des Savies, is from 1722, and was an inspection station for the spring water that went into Paris via the aqueduct built by St.-Martin-des-Champs monks. We saw two more down in private gardens.

Life in COVID19 times :)

We passed pretty streets and lush private gardens.

And saw lots of barber shops and hair salons.

There are historical markers all throughout Paris. I never before realized they are in the shape of a paddle (wikipedia) in honor of the Latin motto of the City of Paris, "Fluctuat nec mergitur "battered by the waves, but never capsized."

We walked through Square de Menilmontant et St-Simoniens where followers of socialist, industrial entrepreneur, economic theorist, and mystic aristocrat Comte de Saint-Simon (1760-1825) gathered and is now filled with office workers on their lunch break and people hanging out.

Nearby is Passage de la Duee, which is one of the narrowest streets in Paris along with Sentier des Merisiers in the 12th and Rue du Chat-qui-Peche in the 5th. We didn't actually get a picture of the road, just the stairs leading off it.

The gardens at Villa Georgina were pretty.

And the views along Rue Tarclet were lovely. This would be a great place to stay for awhile!

We followed the guide to Rue du Telegraphe.

And ended up at the highest part of Menilmontant, at 128 meters, the Cimitiere de Belleville, with water towers right next to it.

A history paddle talked about the Chappe telegraph, which we also encountered in the Languedoc-Rousillon (near Pezenas). It's fun when things come full(ish) circle.

The Blue Guide walk was over. It had really taken us off the beaten path. It is a mixed area with some very pretty streets, lovely gardens, interesting shops, and lots of dog poop and tagged buildings. We liked what we saw.

We routed ourselves to La Fontaine de Belleville using our google app and the handy map at the Metro entrance. Telegraphe was a looong way down. Glad they had working escalators!

We walked a few minutes from Metro stop Goncourt to the restaurant, passing pretty buildings on the way.

I was looking for new places to eat in Paris and came across an article on Eric Frechon's restaurant recommendations. Eric Frechon is the 3 Michelin mastermind at Le Bristol. So I figured he knows food! Le Fontaine de Belleville made sense with today's itinerary (which also included the Atelier des Lumieres that was ditched).

https://www.afar.com/magazine/where-to-eat-in-paris-according-to-one-of-frances-most-famous-chefs

There are many things I love about Paris and one is the outside dining culture, especially important in these COVID19 times. Watching the people and cars parade as I'm enjoying a lovely meal with my guy: priceless!

My darling date! :)

Seafood cassoulet and beef passorole

Chocolate mousse and rhubard cheesecake

This was a delicious bistrot meal! Definitely a place we'd return to.

We took the bus to the Metro line 9 which would get us to La Muette. We always feel accomplished when we figure out the bus! It was crowded and slow but went past interesting businesses like this extermination shop. The rats in the window were as well dressed as you'd expect Parisian rats to be! LOL.

A few minutes later, we were back in the 16th at our "local" Tabac de la Muette, with our evening libations watching the people and cars parade.

Mai tai and chardonnay

Happy back in our 'hood

The building across the street from the Tabac

We figured we'd need something for dinner so grabbed a baguette at the boulangerie next to the Tabac, then shopped at La Grande Epicerie, a chichi food store that has everything you could ever want to nosh. We didn't take many pictures inside, sadly. We loaded up on wine, cheese,, sausages, and fruit. Oh and a cute bag to carry it all.